Paris 2025 - April 19 - Beaugrenelle District

Paris in the spring - sun is warm, flowers bursting everywhere and the cruise river boats are in dock.

My pillow for the next four nights rests in a “North American” type hotel.  Brand name, square box, with  bus tours are the bread and butter.  But I scored a top floor room facing the river. Makes up for the lack of Paris charm in the tiny hotel we stayed in on the Left Bank with the Juliette window overlooking the cafe and fruit stand. Or the charming apartment squished between buildings near the Invalides that four of us shared well aware that we had neighbours on both sides, above and below. 

I walked and walked all through the residential area around the hotel my first day.  I am in the Beaugrenelle District with the hotel a three minute walk from the Pont (bridge) de Grenelle and the fabulous island walk to the Pont de Bir-Hakeim, one of the must see bridges crossing the Seine.   The residential district is the standard walkup apartments with a few more modern ones that are no more than eight stories - on the main thoroughfare there are higher buildings.   Many more cars in this area, but unlike our cities it doesn’t look car centric. The streets are the graceful architecture so typical of Paris with trees and many parks. 

Lots of parks, tot parks, quiet two bench sit and rest parks, play ground parks, and a soccer pitch at a school.  Schools are incorporated into other buildings - shopping, community, library, etc.  I was to see this duel use of space again in Budapest. 

Some are attached to buildings - Maison Médicale Jeanne Garnier for example; and some like tiny Place Alfred-Dreyfus a dot but a lovely break from asphalt.  I loved coming upon statutes, door knobs, and solid wrought iron fence latches that all tell a story. It was a peaceful morning walk crossing the greenery of lawns, strolling under the shady trees, and spying flowers tucked here and there - little surprises of colour under the blue skies.   

The things one learns - In Cabbagetown in Toronto where I lived, the city gave us all three abominably ugly and large plastic bins to put garbage, recycle, and food scrapes in.  Once a week we hauled them to the curb before work.  After work, we uprighted the bins thrown higgledy piggledy wherever they land when tossed by the garbage collectors to reverse the hauling to the front door.

Here in this charming, peaceful, nook of Paris, the street has a garbage collection centre at the corner.   Just as I had observed in Barcelona,  there are no back alleys; no individual garbage containers for each building.   Every resident must pitch their bag (like the old grocery plastic sized bag) in the communal pure garbage bin, food waste bin, glass, paper or plastic bins.  So civilized.  Take your castoffs and toss each morning on the way to work.  Quiet. Convenient. And a moment to say hi to the neighbours before you both rush off to catch the transit.   

Lots of small dogs.  A fine for not picking up.  €200 if you are stupid, just thoughtless, or maybe arrogant and don't think rules are for you, and you get caught twice  Paris residents used to be notorious for not picking up. The new lady mayor (of course it is a woman - she who must keep the residence clean and tidy - why not the road also?) literally laid down the law.   The squawking as SO many people got fined.  In six months a sea change.  €200 in Canadian dollars in July 2025 is $314. It’s no wonder people are paying attention.

I don’t know where all the cars fill up.  Not a gas station anywhere.  Traffic is much less on the main roads.  It moves without a lot of horn blowing.  The daily entry fee to downtown per car works like a charm.  It is a timed fee - minimum is $20 and up from there.  

Grocery stores are small, tucked into a street door but expands on the inside behind all the other street shops.  A small variety of each item.  Well organized. Small check out counters.  No one buys more than they can carry in two hands. 

Transit within the city, to the airport, Versailles and other sites: Trains, metro/subway, and buses are excellent. On time.  Clean. People are polite. Everyone is very helpful.  Ask a 15 year old.  Not only do they know the technology, but chances are they speak excellent English.   Once you know how to read the outside signs on the train or bus or subway, you can go anywhere relatively painless without a word of French.  My best advice: Spend the time learning how to read the signage and you’ll sail. Be lazy and you pay the price. I did say, spend the time. Or ask that 15 year old.

There is a lot of English.  Most people in the service industry of all ages speak basic English as a minimum.  In the residential areas, I stopped people to ask directions because I get myself turned around.  Most  people hear my accent and speak English.  It didn’t used to be this way.  Those that don’t speak English are patient with the accent. A huge improvement.  I ask them to speak slowly and they do.  I can then generally understand what they said.  But I repeat back to be sure.  Maybe the Olympics 2024 when the Paris government went on a blitz to get people to be nicer has paid dividends.  Whatever the reason - THANK YOU PARIS!  My walk around Beaugrenelle was a joy. 

View from 29th floor at night:  River Seine and Pont de.Grenelle with the dark roof of the shopping centre next to the hotel. North of the shopping centre a high rise condo, On the other side of the Seine is the 16th Arrondissement.

The bin beside the shopping centre is not going to overflow.  There are four access points at different levels to push in a bottle of any size.  It looks somewhat like robot.  Maybe there is a crusher on the inside.